Created by Bulgari in Italy during the 1980s, this distinctive pendant combines the natural iridescence of mother-of-pearl with the graphic strength of 18K yellow gold. Its rectangular silhouette, softened by gently rounded corners, is traversed by broad, angular bands of gold that divide the surface into a series of geometric forms. Beneath these polished divisions, the mother-of-pearl reveals subtle variations of ivory, silver, and pale rose, its delicate reflections changing with the movement of the jewel. A substantial gold bail completes the composition, providing a balanced transition between the pendant and its suspension.
The design reflects Bulgari’s confident exploration of geometry, proportion, and contrasting materials during the late twentieth century. Rather than employing mother-of-pearl as a conventional decorative accent, the composition gives its iridescent surface a central role, allowing the gold framework to define and emphasize its natural variations. The strong diagonal elements introduce movement within the otherwise orderly rectangular silhouette, creating a distinctive balance between structure and ornament.
Weighing 20.3 grams, the pendant possesses a satisfying material presence, its polished gold surfaces providing a striking counterpoint to the delicate character of the nacre.
Within the permanence of gold, mother-of-pearl holds a changing light, never quite revealing the same surface twice.
