Van Cleef & Arpels: Elegance, and Timeless Design
For over a century, Van Cleef & Arpels has been synonymous with exceptional craftsmanship, artistic ingenuity, and some of the most iconic jewelry designs ever created. From the Mystery Set™ to the enchanting Ballerina brooches, the maison has consistently pushed the boundaries of high jewelry, attracting royalty, celebrities, and collectors worldwide.
At Odeon, we have a deep appreciation for Van Cleef & Arpels’ extraordinary legacy. From vintage Alhambra pieces to rare Art Deco designs, we’ve had the pleasure of handling some truly magnificent creations from this storied maison. And for those seeking something exceptional, the search for the perfect piece is always an adventure worth undertaking.
The Birth of a Jewelry Empire
The Van Cleef & Arpels story began in 1906, when Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a diamond cutter, partnered with his wife, Estelle Arpels, whose family specialized in precious stones. Their shared passion for gemstones and fine jewelry led to the opening of their first boutique at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris—a location that remains the brand’s flagship today.
From the beginning, the maison set itself apart by combining technical mastery with imaginative design, quickly gaining a following among the aristocracy, royalty, and style icons of the era.
Innovations and Signature Creations
The Mystery Set™ (1933): A Technical Marvel
Patented in 1933, the Mystery Set™ is one of the most technically challenging jewelry innovations ever created. By setting stones without visible prongs or metal, Van Cleef & Arpels achieved a seamless, luminous effect, allowing rubies, sapphires, and emeralds to form an uninterrupted expanse of color. The technique requires hundreds of hours of meticulous craftsmanship, making these pieces highly coveted by collectors.
The Ballerina and Fairy Brooches (1940s-1950s)
One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most charming and whimsical designs emerged in the 1940s—the Ballerina brooches. Inspired by the grace of ballet dancers, these brooches feature intricate, gemstone-encrusted tutus with diamonds forming delicate faces and hands.
Similarly, the Fairy brooches, often seen holding wands or sitting gracefully on crescent moons, became a hallmark of the maison’s romantic aesthetic. These ethereal designs have been worn by collectors and royalty alike and remain some of the most sought-after pieces in vintage jewelry.
The Zip Necklace (1950): High Jewelry Meets Haute Couture
In the 1950s, Van Cleef & Arpels took inspiration from haute couture with the Zip Necklace—a fully functional zipper transformed into a piece of fine jewelry. Designed at the suggestion of the Duchess of Windsor, this ingenious creation can be worn as both a necklace and a bracelet, showcasing the maison’s flair for innovation.
The Alhambra Collection (1968): A Symbol of Luck and Elegance
Introduced in 1968, the Alhambra collection became an instant classic. Inspired by the four-leaf clover and Moorish architecture, these gold and gemstone motifs symbolize luck, love, health, and fortune. Seen on countless style icons, from Princess Grace of Monaco to Elizabeth Taylor, Alhambra remains one of the most recognized and beloved jewelry designs in history.
A Favorite Among Royals and Hollywood Icons
Van Cleef & Arpels has long been the jeweler of choice for royalty, Hollywood legends, and fashion icons. Some of its most famous patrons include:
• Marlene Dietrich – The actress was known for her bold and glamorous style, famously wearing her Van Cleef & Arpels Jarretière bracelet, a striking diamond and ruby piece, in the 1950 film Stage Fright.
• Princess Grace of Monaco – A devoted client, she owned a vast collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, including custom diamond tiaras, necklaces, and the iconic Alhambra designs.
• Elizabeth Taylor – The queen of extravagant jewelry, Taylor owned multiple pieces from the maison, including the stunning sapphire and diamond Sautoir necklace.
• The Duchess of Windsor – One of the most stylish women of the 20th century, she commissioned numerous bespoke pieces, including the revolutionary Zip Necklace.
• Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis – The former First Lady was known for her impeccable style, often seen wearing her Alhambra necklace, further cementing its status as a timeless classic.
The Timeless Appeal of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels is more than a jewelry house—it is a symbol of timeless elegance, innovation, and artistic mastery. Whether it’s the delicate ballerinas, the precision of the Mystery Set™, or the enduring charm of the Alhambra collection, each piece tells a story of craftsmanship and heritage.
For those passionate about vintage jewelry, discovering an authentic Van Cleef & Arpels creation is like uncovering a piece of history. At Odeon, we have encountered extraordinary examples from this maison—each one carrying its own unique charm and provenance. Whether appreciating a piece from afar or seeking out a special addition to a collection, Van Cleef & Arpels continues to captivate jewelry lovers around the world.